Thanksgiving with a Loudoun flair

With the eating fresh and local trend continuing to gather steam, why not make this Thanksgiving a showcase for Loudoun’s best and freshest? We have put together a holiday guide that showcases some of the tastiest, freshest seasonal products the region has to offer.

Turkey is the traditional centerpiece of the Thanksgiving table. You can get yours locally for top flavor, and enhance it with tips and recipes from two chefs with close ties to Loudoun’s farmers and vintners.

Robert Townsend, 39, of Middleburg, is executive chef at Ayrshire Farm, near Upperville. Townsend’s cooking centers on the seasons and their cornucopia of products from farm, vine and pasture.

“I see the change of seasons like a lovely flower arrangement,” he said. “Their beauty doesn’t last forever but they come back around again the following year.”

The Pittsburgh native gives a culinary nod to Loudoun’s “Old World” Thanksgiving traditions. “We’re surrounded by farms and hunting grounds, so the food takes us back to old-fashioned roast turkey; oyster, sausage or chestnut stuffing; corn pudding; sweet potato and pumpkin praline pie. That’s how it was meant to be -- why change it?”

Townsend’s culinary technique elevates the traditional Thanksgiving table.

“The No. 1 tip for the best turkey is brining the bird," he said. “If you brine it overnight in sugar and salt water, your turkey will be juicier than any you’ve ever had.”

Since the salt breaks the meat down and permeates it, you won’t need as much salt.

“A lot of people don’t do it," he said, "but that’s the biggest key.”

For those who don’t wish to cook, Townsend recommends Ayrshire Farm’s Turkey Cushion. It’s boned, pounded, trussed and stuffed, then cleverly tied to resemble a pincushion. Figure about 5 ounces per serving.

For the main course, he suggests a white wine keyed to the stuffing.

“I love chardonnay with oyster stuffing, viognier with chestnut or bread stuffing," he said.

The exception is Boxwood Winery’s red cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot blend that complements Elaine Boland’s lamb sausage stuffing from Fields of Athenry, in Purcellville (see recipe). “For dessert, a semi-dry apple wine goes great with a pumpkin or sweet potato pie. The dryness balances a sweet dessert.”

Like Townsend, Patowmack Farm executive chef Christopher Edward preserves tradition while introducing innovations. Edwards, 32, cooks his family’s Thanksgiving feast at his Woodbridge home.

“My mom always yells at me when I take the legs off the turkey," he said, "because I braise the legs low and slow so the breast will not dry out.”

If you’re not comfortable with butchering your bird, buy a fresh turkey and ask the butcher to remove the thigh-leg quarter, he said. (See recipe.)

To transform homespun sweet potato or pumpkin pie into an elegant dessert, Edwards dabbles with presentation.

“It will not be like the slice you have at home with whipped cream on top,” he said.

Flavors are traditional, but shapes and garnishes transform the plate into a canvas. Edwards crumbles puff pastry cinnamon-sugar streusel over the pie in place of a top crust. Then he garnishes it with Whiskey Pecan Brittle (see recipe), and vanilla ice cream. He recommends Willowcroft Farm Vineyards’ traminette to accompany a pumpkin or sweet potato pie.

“It’s not a dessert wine," he said, "but I love it because it’s fruity but not overly sweet.”

Edwards became a farm chef when he and Patowmack Farm owner Beverly Morton-Billand realized they shared a commitment to fine dining and fresh foods.

“It’s all about the connection to the land," he said. "It’s a dream come true as a chef to work on a farm -- a great opportunity for me to showcase what Loudoun County offers.”

Thanksgiving recipes:

Chestnut and apple soup

From Robert Townsend, executive chef, Ayrshire Farm

Serves 4

1/2 stick unsalted butter

2 small shallots, minced

3 local apples, skinned, seeded and chunked

2 cups shelled chestnuts

4 cups chicken stock (available at Home Farm Store)

1/2 cup half and half

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

Salt and white pepper to taste

Croutons (for garnish)

In a small pot, melt butter over low heat. Add shallots, apples and chestnuts. Cook about 5 minutes. Add chicken stock and simmer until soft. Puree mixture and return to pot. Add half and half, nutmeg and brown sugar. Bring to simmer, adjust salt and pepper.

Garnish with croutons.

Tenderest Thanksgiving Turkey

From Chris Edwards, executive chef, Patowmack Farm

Tip: Have your butcher remove the turkey's leg-thigh quarters.

1 18-24 pound all-natural turkey

1 pound butter, softened

4 onions, peeled and chopped

1 head celery, chopped

6 carrots, peeled and chopped

20 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1 bunch fresh rosemary

1 bunch fresh thyme

1 bunch fresh sage

2 quarts chicken stock

2 cups water

salt and pepper to taste

To braise leg quarters: Season with salt and pepper. In a large pan brown with one-quarter pound butter. Once skin is evenly browned, remove leg quarters from pan and add 1 cup chopped onion, celery and carrots. Add 5 cloves of garlic, and one-half the quantity of each herb. Cook 10 minutes on medium heat till softened and lightly browned. Pour chicken stock into pan and bring to boil. Place leg quarters in stock, cover and place in 275-degree oven for 2 to 2.5 hours. This step can be done one to two days in advance. Otherwise, while leg quarters are cooking, prepare the turkey breast.

For turkey breast: Pick leaves from herbs and chop roughly. Mix chopped leaves and 5 garlic cloves with remaining butter by hand or in a food processor. Using hands, massage herb butter under skin of turkey to evenly distribute. Excess butter can be rubbed on the outside of the breast. Season with salt and pepper. Place remaining vegetables in a large roasting pan. Place turkey on top of vegetables. Pour water into bottom of pan. Roast in a 425-degree, preheated oven 25 minutes. Reduce heat to 325 degrees and cook for 2.5 hours, or until a meat thermometer inserted at the thickest portion of the breast reads 185 degrees. Baste turkey periodically.

To serve: Present the breast and leg quarters side by side. Remove the meat from the breastbone before slicing to ensure even slices.

Lamb Sausage Stovetop Dressing

From Elaine Boland, Fields of Athenry Farm

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1 large sweet onion, finely diced

1 box Seeds of Change Seven Whole Grain Pilaf Blend (or the grain or rice of choice)

2 and 3/4 cups chicken stock

1 pound loose Fields of Athenry lamb sausage

1 small stalk celery, fine-diced

2 cups red grapes, quartered

2 Granny Smith apples, fine-diced

1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped

In a 5-quart or larger pot, melt butter and saute onion. Add rice or grains and cook 10 minutes.

Add stock, cover and simmer 45 minutes or until done. (If you use rice, follow your own recipe.)

In a separate large skillet, cook lamb sausage until barely pink. Drain fat.

Add sausage, celery, grapes, apples and parsley to onions and cooked grain.

Simmer on low 5-10 minutes or to desired tenderness of fruit and celery.

Whiskey Pecan Brittle for Pumpkin Pie

From Chris Edwards, executive chef, Patowmack Farm

You will need a candy thermometer for this recipe. Be very careful not to splash hot sugar on your skin. Children should not attempt this recipe. Grease two cookie sheets before beginning.

2 cups sugar

1 cup light corn syrup

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup Jack Daniels or other whiskey

1 cup butter

2 cups pecans

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

Mix sugar, corn syrup, water and whiskey and bring to boil. Add butter, stirring frequently. Cook slowly. When mixture reaches 280 degrees, add pecans. Continue stirring. When mixture reaches 300 degrees, remove from heat and whisk in baking soda and salt. Immediately pour mixture onto greased cookie sheets, using a wooden spoon to spread brittle into a thin layer.

To serve: Place pie slices on plate slightly off-center. Break cooled brittle into chunks. Sprinkle over pie and mound to one side. Place one scoop of vanilla ice cream on small pile of brittle on the side.

Copyright 2009 Loudoun Times-Mirror. All rights reserved.